Sean Newsom
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Have you heard about the snow? In parts of France, there’s been so much of it, ski resorts were cut off for several days last week. Roads were closed, lifts shut and – at times – guests advised to stay indoors.
Pat Zimmer, of the ski school Top Ski, founded in Val d’Isère in 1976, thinks this is the snowiest start to winter since 1981. It’s not just France that’s been walloped, either - Switzerland, Italy and parts of Austria have had heavy and consistent snow for weeks.
It’s not all good news, though.
This kind of snowfall is fraught with dangers, creating tantalising conditions away from the groomed trails and tempting far too many skiers and snowboarders into the pristine powder beyond.
Only a fraction are properly equipped for this silent and potentially lethal wilderness, or trained to read the complex relationship between terrain, snow and weather. As a result, several have already died in avalanches.
How do you make sure it isn’t you? In Europe, there are two options. The first is to hire a qualified guide who knows the mountain backwards and carries a rucksack full of safety equipment to distribute to clients, giving basic training in how to use it. This is the easy option, but it’s expensive. For each day in the powder, you’ll spend at least £200 for a group of up to four skiers or boarders.
The other option is to get some avalanche training yourself - and that’s what I did when I joined one of the superb Snow and Avalanche Awareness Camps (SAACs) in Austria. The courses were set up in the winter of 1998-99 because far too many young Austrians were dying in off-piste accidents; to tempt as many people onto them as possible, they’re heavily subsidised. A basic two-day course is free. If you want to extend that into an entire week, you can add 3½ or 5½ days of more detailed tuition out on the mountain from just £295, including basic bunkhouse accommodation (but not flights or transfers) - and the services of a highly qualified mountain guide.
The basic course starts with a three-hour classroom session - and I can’t think of a more bracing or efficient way to strip yourself of a few common misconceptions. Did you know, for example, that it doesn’t take fresh snowfall to boost the avalanche danger significantly? All you need is wind. It hustles the snow into deep drifts, shapes it into thick overhangs, known as cornices, and breaks down the crystals, creating dense, heavy slabs that can slide over looser snow below. By the time it eases off, a relatively safe slope will have become lethal.
Most people will tell you that a slope with trees on it is less prone to avalanches than one that’s open - but this is not the case either. Trees often make the snow settle in irregular and unstable patterns - only when they’re so close together that you can’t actually ski or snowboard through them do they anchor the snow securely.
Perhaps the most startling misunderstandingconcerns avalanche warnings. A universal system in the Alps rates the danger out of five. Off-pisters should consult this every morning before they head up the mountain - 1/5 means that the snow is stable, and avalanches will be triggered only on very steep slopes; 5/5 means “stay in bed”, because you won’t be safe even on groomed and avalanche-protected pistes. Few people realise, however, that 3/5 denotes significant risk. It is, in fact, when the warning is at 3/5 that by far the highest number of avalanche deaths occur.
The SAAC classroom session is backed up with a day of practical tuition on the slopes. The two elements are designed to equip pupils with strategies for tackling the back country and make them familiar with safety equipment - such as shovel, probe and the all-important transceiver, which allows its wearers to search for someone buried in the snow and to be detected themselves.
Perhaps surprisingly, it’s a lot of fun. I did my course in Mayrhofen, in the Austrian Tyrol, last March - and, as luck would have it, it snowed heavily on three of the five days. Visibility was nonexistent on exposed slopes, so we were forced to stay close to the pistes, and restricted in what we could do. Under the circumstances, Robbie Schellander, our guide, did the sensible thing, leavening the tuition with plenty of hell-for-leather runs through deep snow - sticking, of course, to slopes he judged to be safe.
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