Report compiled by blogger Trey Cook of Chamonix
Insider and Martha Tullberg who runs the cosy Chalet
La Foret in Les Praz
Home of the first Winter Olympics in 1924. Six separate lift stations in the
valley. 2800m of vertical descent. A 22km run. The birthplace of
you-fall-you-die extreme skiing. One look at the towering, snow-covered
peaks and hanging glaciers surrounding Chamonix and it’s no wonder that the
best skiers from around the world consider Chamonix a must-ski destination.
Stroll through the streets of our centre ville and you will no doubt
encounter more than a few of the infamous, harness-wearing “Chamonerds” with
prototype skis over their shoulders and crampons and ice axes bristling from
their high-tech rucksacks.
But while the legendary steeps and backcountry excursions on glacial terrain
are what set Chamonix apart, there are also a significant number of open,
gentle slopes and sunny, tree-lined runs at Les Houches and La Balme (also
called Le Tour).
In truth though, Chamonix is all about the off-piste. With 2000m of vert, the
Grands Montets is legendary for its wide open, big mountain skiing. Powder
days here are manic, full throttle, top-to-bottom speed runs that leave a
perma-grin on the face of passionate skiers for months to follow.
Les Grands Montets is one of the world's greatest ski areas – the huge,
unpisted blacks from the top drop 2000m to the valley floor (red from the
midstation, but it would be a black anywhere else). Get your ticket to the
top, stop off for a coffee and then join the clanking parties down the
stairs. This is also the start of some legendary off-piste – the seven day
Haute Route to Zermatt begins here, and so do Chamonix classics, the Pas de
Chèvre, Col du Passon and Couloir Rectiligne.
And of course, there is the mythical Aiguille du Midi cable car that ascends
to 3800 meters and provides access to the Mont Blanc range and Italy. The
Midi is world famous for unsurpassed skiing amidst the stunningly beautiful
crevasses and seracs of the Vallée Blanche glacier with guided descents
available for skiers of all abilities. For the best of the best, test pieces
here include the Cosmique Couloir and Glacier Ronde where falls resulting in
death are not uncommon. Easier routes let you explore 17 km of spectacular
off-piste, weaving around crevasses and past piles of seracs – it's
unbelievable that this wild mountain environment is accessible by confident
intermediates (with a guide). Don't try it on the first couple of days – but
also, try to avoid it on Friday and Saturday as it can be more crowded then.
In short, Chamonix has something for everyone and for those whose idea of
skiing involves a healthy dose of risk assessment then Chamonix is an ideal
destination.
Full of Brits > 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 > Test my languages
Ever since 1741 when Englishmen William Windham and Dr Richard Pococke went on
the first recorded tourist trip up the Mer de Glace glacier in the mid
1700s, English tourists have been as much a part of the Chamonix valley as
raclette and genepi. There are loads of English and Swedish-owned chalets,
bars and restaurants and it is rare to find a Frenchman who doesn’t speak
passable, if not perfect, English. In fact, the resort is so Anglo-centric
that finding someone with whom to practise your French can be a real
challenge.
Quiet bars > 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 > Beerhalls
and clubs
Chamonix is almost as well known for its rocking nightlife as it is for its
amazing skiing. Aprés ski starts at the MBC (Micro
Brewery Chamonix). Bangin’ DJs can be found spinning at Soul Food, The
Mix and Hotel Vert with boozy,
after-hours dancing at the Garage
or Le Tof. Those preferring a more relaxed atmosphere can chill out at Lapin
Agile or get involved in the nightly wine tastings at Cha
Cha Cha.
There are so many bars in Chamonix that there's plenty of variety. Perennial
locals favourite Casa Valerio is
best known for its pizzas but has a nice bar too. Go to Les
Rhododendrons for relaxing après-ski at the Flégère base, with live
acoustic music, homemade shots, a log fire and friendly dogs...
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