We have been to Marrakech and loved it, and now we want to try Fez, which is supposed to be even more chaotic! Could you recommend a nice Riad where we can relax when not out sightseeing? Susie Baxter, Coventry

A Sunday Times travel expert responds: It’s true that Fez makes far less concessions to tourists, and that’s what makes it so fascinating. Its walled Medina is criss-crossed by almost 10,000 alleyways, and inside your senses are bombarded by the workings of a city that has changed little since medieval times, with sweet smelling mini-bakeries on every corner, pungent tanneries, noisy workshops, and always the passing of heavily loaded donkeys.

It’s the ultimate Arabian Nights atmosphere, but there are quiet places too; inside the beautifully restored palaces and mansions – now superb riads – and also there’s the tree-lines boulevards of the 'ville nouveau', constructed by the French in 1916, with plenty of more conventional restaurants and shops. Then there’s the impressive bulk of the Merenid tombs, away from the bustle on a hillside, with magical views across the Medina.

A perfect place to unwind in is Dar al Andalous (00 212 55 740700, www.daralandalous.com), a charming place with two graceful courtyards and 12 rooms good-sized rooms decorated in a traditional style, but with a light touch. The husband and wife owners take pride in their property and provide exemplary hospitality, plus there’s a good Moroccan restaurant, a roof terrace, hammam and solarium. Simpson Travel (0845 811 6505, www.simpsontravel.com) has three nights B&B from £485pp, with flights from London and transfers.

More opulent, yet remaining intimate and homely is Dar El Ghalia (00 212 55 634167, www.maisondhotes.co.ma). It’s just five years old as a hotel, but occupies a 17th century building, which has been occupied by the same family for 300 years. The decor is stylish, but restrained, and there are plenty of nooks and crannies. There’s a fine roof-terrace, a hammam and one of Fez' best restaurants, the Dar Tajine. The Best of Morocco (0845 026 4588, www.realmorocco.com) has three-nights B&B from £465pp, including flights from London and private transfers.

But to really splash out, it has to be the Riad Maison Bleue (00 212 55 741873, www.maisonbleue.com). It has an excellent restaurant, which can get rather busy, and sumptuous decor. The 11 richly decorated rooms surround three interconnecting courtyards, one with a terrific little swimming pool. There’s an elegant rooftop terrace with a fountain, where breakfast and sundowners are served. Pettitts (01892 515966; www.pettitts.co.uk) has four nights B&B from £670pp, with flights from London with British Airways, sightseeing and private transfers.

Times recommends

• The world's 10 weirdest things to eat
• Correspondents: hoteliers revenge for Tripadvisor
• A slow, ponderous journey up the Mekong