Richard Green
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Some years ago, I visited Bran Castle in Romania, which I was told was Dracula’s. Now I hear that this isn’t true. As I’m planning another visit, I want to know where I should go to see the real McCoy? Dave Greaves, Portsmouth
Sunday Times travel expert, Richard Green, responds: Bran castle certainly looks the part, with its spiky towers and spooky silhouette, and it was built on cue in the early 13th century. But no, it wasn’t Vlad’s pad, and in fact, Vlad the Impaler, on who Bram Stoker based Count Dracula on in his famous novel, never set foot in the place. But this hasn’t stopped it being marketed to tourists as ‘Dracula’s Castle’ though – see www.draculascastle.com - and it’s appeared in several Dracula films too.
However, the real McCoy is what’s left of Poienari Castle, set spectacularly on the side of a gorge. It’s almost 1,500 steps up to the ruins, but it’s well worth the climb - for the fantastic views and to be unnerved by its authenticity.
To add to the confusion, Bram Stoker never visited Romania, and based his writing on talking to travellers and research in the library. He set his fictional version of Dracula’s castle 120 miles to the north, on the vertiginous Borgo Pass. The Communist government cashed in on the increased interest in the legend in the 1980’s, and built the wonderfully kitsch Hotel Castle Dracula here.
To sort out the fact from fiction, you can visit all three ‘castles’ on a Transylvania Uncovered (0845 300 0247, www.beyondtheforest.com) Dracula-themed tour. Prices start at £999pp, including flights, transport in Romania, accommodation, and guides. Other companies offering Dracula tours include Romanian Travel Centre (0800 132973, www.romaniatravelcentre.com) and Fregata travel (020 74207305, www.fregatatravel.co.uk).
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