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I’m flying into Dar Es Salaam to spend some time relaxing on Zanzibar. What’s the best way to get out to the island after I land, as I’ve heard some horror stories about the ferries? Dave Lessing, Shrewsbury
Sunday Times travel expert, Richard Green, responds: Well you could hop on Zanair or Precision Air for the 20-minute and £30 flight to the island, but if you have any sense of romance, it’s better by far to take a taxi to the harbour and sail across on a ferry. Instead of being unceremoniously dumped on the island’s dreary landing strip, you’ll arrive just as all the great explorers did – Stanley, Speke, Livingston and Burton – mesmerised by a horizon filling with the wonderfully ramshackle shapes of Stone Town. The port is then just a short ride from the town’s hotels.
The ferries themselves are fine, but they do have a bad rap for rip-offs. Follow a couple of simple steps though, and all will be well. Firstly, head straight to the main ticket window of the port – just opposite the St Joseph’s Cathedral – and buy your ticket here. Ignore touts who want to lead you elsewhere, or who offer cheaper tickets. They will probably palm you off with the much cheaper resident fares, which of course you’ll then get caught out with when your ticket is inspected. And don’t believe stories about new boats, broken boats, or even flying boats; there plenty of sailings a day, for £18 one-way on the fast boats (taking about two hours), and £10 on the slower crossing (four hours).
Once you’re at sea, you can relax into one of the world’s great little journeys. And worry not, getting back to Dar is even easier, as many travel agents and hotels on the island will book tickets for you.
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