I am visiting Kwa Zulu Natal next year and have always wanted to see the Zulu War battlefields. I heard great reports from a friend who stayed at Fugitive's Lodge near to Rorke's Drift and had a tour by the late David Rattray. Is the lodge still open and are there tours from there? - Derrick Knight, London

Sunday Times travel expert Richard Green responds: Yes the Fugitives' Drift lodge (www.fugitivesdrift.com) is still very much open for business, run now by David's wife, Nicky. It's in a lovely setting, on the banks of the Buffalo River Gorge, seven miles from the mountain of Isandlwana ­ site of the famous defeat of the British forces by the Zulu army on the January 22, 1879.

The eight rooms are very large, in small cottage style buildings, each with a private veranda overlooking the river gorge - décor is cosy, with antique prints and local carvings. The room rate is from £123pp per night full board.

Anyone lucky enough to have heard one of David Rattray's talks, as I did by the old mission station at Rorke's Drift ­ the one defended to the last in the 1968 film Zulu - will never forget his incredible talent as an inspirational story teller. It is true that his charisma infused the lodge.

Even before his untimely death in January 2007 though, he trained key staff to give his style of talks at the battlefield sites. These days, Rob, Joseph, and George continue the tradition by delivering exceptionally moving talks on the heroism and hubris of the Anglo-Zulu war, and also touch on David's legacy, South Africa's future, and racial reconciliation. For more information on David Rattray's life, see (www.davidrattrayfoundation.org).

Nearby is the 13-room Isandlwana Lodge (00 27 34 271 8301, www.isandlwana.co.za). It's a two-story thatch building that stands where the Zulu commander surveyed the Isandlwana battle. Half board doubles start at £107pp per night, full board. The lodge also runs expertly lead tours of the battle sites.

Both lodges are featured by Ultimate Travel (020 7386 4646, www.theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk), Audley Travel (01993 838 000, www.audleytravel.com), and Cedarberg Travel (020 8755 7917, www.cedarberg-travel.com). For more information on the battle sites, see www.tourism-kzn.org, www.rorkesdriftvc.com, and www.kwazulu.co.uk

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