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THE PATIENT
I’VE SEEN some bad bites in my time, but the one that presents itself this
week is unusually severe. Stefan Grol has been bitten hard. “Ever since I
can remember, I’ve been obsessed with wildlife. As a child, I was always out
in the garden looking for frogs — now I want to explore the world.”
Anywhere in particular, I ask? “It’d be a dream to get to the Galapagos,” he
says. “An African safari would be fantastic, too, but I wouldn’t want to be
in a posh lodge on the edge of a park — I’d want to be in a tent, right in
the middle of the bush. I love diving, too, but probably just as part of the
trip, rather than the main focus.”
Stefan has a budget of about £2,000, and wants to get away for up to two weeks
early next year.
STEFAN GROL
Stefan, 28, is a sales consultant from Southfields in London.
Last CD bought: Snoop Dogg
Last book read: Life on Earth by David Attenborough
Favourite food: Thai
Favourite tipple: Guinness
THE DOCTOR SAYS
STEFAN’S CASE shouldn’t be too hard, but I have one crucial area of concern:
budget. Two thousand pounds might sound like plenty for a fortnight, but
flights to Africa and Ecuador don’t come cheap. Throw in typical
wildlife-holiday costs such as air transfers, guide and park fees, and
Stefan may have to stretch the purse strings.
PRESCRIPTION ONE
Dream boat, Galapagos
If he hunts for flights (KLM flies via Amsterdam for about £600) and scours
the web for cruises (the US-based sustainable-tourism specialist
www.worldsurface.com has 10-day trips from only £570, including two nights
in Quito, air transfers to the Galapagos, and park fees), Stefan could be
snorkelling with seals and brushing past boobies for less than £1,200.
However, when it comes to the Galapagos, you tend to get what you pay for, and
while £570 might get you a good boat and an expert guide, it almost
certainly won’t. Moreover, the less you pay, the more you’re unlikely to
reach the less crowded outer islands such as Floreana, Española and San
Cristobal.
My recommendation, therefore, is for a fully bonded UK operator, such as
Discovery Initiatives, which has 12-day trips from about £2,100 to £3,500.
Obviously, the more you pay, the fancier your board and lodging, but whether
you pay top or bottom dollar, all Discovery Initiative trips are guided by
top-category native islanders with fluent English and natural-history
degrees.
Discovery Initiatives (01285 643333, www.discoveryinitiatives.co.uk) has 12
days in Quito and the Galapagos from £2,100, full-board, including a
seven-day cruise to the outer islands, and flights via Amsterdam with KLM to
Quito.
PRESCRIPTION TWO
Safari and scuba, Kenya
Kenya is the cheapest of Africa’s safari options, and that’s where
I’m sending our patient. If he scours the net, Stefan could snaffle a
six-day safari for as little as £210 (www.gametrackersafaris.com), and
flights with the likes of Qatar Airways for only £375. That’s less than £600
for a week — can’t lose, can he? Well, he can: he’ll have a four-hour
stopover in Doha, and spend 20 hours of his six-day safari driving Kenya’s
appalling highways in a combi-van. As with the Galapagos, you get what you
pay for.
That’s why I’m prescribing a fully bonded UK operator, internal flights rather
than interminable drives, and an 11-tent safari camp (Kicheche Camp in the
Masai Mara) so far into the bush that lions, elephants, buffaloes and
leopards roam the camp at night. Better yet, from Kicheche, Stefan is only a
short road transfer from the coastal resort of Malindi, where he could
finish off his wildlife odyssey diving for whale sharks.
J&C Voyageurs (01373 832111) has an 11-day trip to Kenya for £2,081,
including seven nights, full-board, with all activities at Kicheche Camp,
and four nights, half-board, at Driftwood Club in Malindi. The price
includes single supplements and return flights from Heathrow to the Mara via
Nairobi with British Airways.
PRESCRIPTION THREE
Wolf-tracking, Poland
Probably not what Stefan was expecting, this one. Guided by Sinclair
Dunnet, one of the most charismatic, entertaining and passionate natural
historians in Britain, this trip explores deep into the forests of eastern
Poland. It is deliberately timed to coincide with guaranteed January snow,
so Stefan will be tracking wolf and wild boar, lynx and European bison, elk
and ermine, keeping an eye out all the time for golden and white-tailed
eagles.
The highlight of the trip is an overnight vigil in a “high seat”, a hide
raised high above the forest floor — it’s freezing, hardcore stuff, but
utterly worth it for the exhilarating wolf sightings. There is also time for
a horse-drawn sledge “safari” and a roast-boar barbecue by a frozen lake.
Naturetrek (01962 733051, www.naturetrek.co.uk) has a nine-day Poland in
Winter trip (departs on January 14 and 27) for £1,290, full-board, including
a £195 single supplement, all activities and return flights from Heathrow to
Warsaw.
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