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THE PATIENTS
THERE ARE times when I have to remind patients I’m a doctor, not a
miracle-worker. Step forward Andrea and Jonathan Stokes, who want a
three-week walking holiday but only have £2,000 to spend — in total. I’m
thinking camping to keep the cost down, I’m thinking EasyJet flights to the
Alps or the Pyrenees, then Andrea delivers the killer blow: “I hurt my back
last year, so carrying a heavy rucksack with camping gear isn’t really on.”
Probe deeper, and things begin to look decidedly grim. Andrea again: “Ideally,
we’d like to go over winter, but we’re not exactly crampon people. Also,
we’re not sure about going with a group. If it’s the only way, fine, but
we’d prefer to go alone.”
THE STOKESES
Andrea, 33, is a geography lecturer at Brunel University; Jonathan, also 33,
works for an investment bank.
The couple live in Clapham, London.
Last CD bought
Him: Basement Jaxx
Her: Franz Ferdinand
Last book read
Him: Empire: How Britain Made the Modern World by Niall Ferguson
Her: The Evidence for the Sixth Sense by Hazel Courtney
Favourite food
Him: Japanese
Her: anything vegetarian
Favourite tipple
Him: lager
Her: Australian shiraz
THE DOCTOR SAYS
BLIMEY. Let’s recap: we want somewhere without much snow, where porters are
cheap and easily arranged, where flights won’t break the bank. Forget the
Alps and the Pyrenees (too much snow, too pricey if they’re not going to
camp), and kiss goodbye to the Andes (flights alone cost £750), which leaves
the medicine cabinet almost bare. Luckily for the Stokes, I have a secret
stash of remedies.
PRESCRIPTION ONE
Top of the world, Nepal
With flights for less than £500, “teahouse” lodges scattered throughout the
most spectacular mountains on the planet, and porter/guides for hire at
£7.50 a day, Nepal is the ultimate independent trekker’s paradise. Board and
lodging never cost more than £10 a night, and although October, November,
March and April are considered the best months, my favourite season is
winter — quieter and clearer, although the Stokeses will have to pack a
serious four-season sleeping bag.
The hitch, however, is that Nepal has a problem with Maoists. Tourists have
never been targeted, but independent trekkers in the Annapurna region are
routinely stung for “contributions” to the cause. If our couple are
determined to go it alone, I suggest they head to the Everest region instead
and head for Everest Base Camp. They could either walk in from Jiri or fly
in to Lukla (£55; six days further up the trail), walking in via the
stunning Gokyo valley. Estimated cost:
£925pp for an 18-day trek, with three nights in Kathmandu, including all
meals, guiding, portering, and flights on Gulf Air (www.gulfairco.com). The
first thing they should pack is Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya (Lonely
Planet £12.99), which has nearly 500 pages of route notes, maps and tips to
help them plan a trek in Nepal. Exodus (0870 240 5550, www.exodus.co.uk) has
a 19-day Everest Base Camp trip (12 days trekking) from £1,199, with
flights.
PRESCRIPTION TWO
Atlas trails, Morocco
Independent trekking is possible in Morocco, but paths are indistinct and the
Stokeses will need a guide, whom they can pick up at any of the trail heads
for about £20 a day. A mule with muleteer costs about £8 per day, board and
lodging in village houses or state-run gîtes d’étapes never more than £10pp.
Trekking in the Moroccan Atlas (Trailblazer £11.99), updated just this
month, will be the best friend they could possibly have.
My favourite winter trek here is in the Anti Atlas range, a region of volcanic
gorges and remote, little-visited villages between the High Atlas and the
Sahara. If the Stokeses fly to Marrakesh (about £220 with Royal Air Maroc:
www.royalairmaroc.com), then take a taxi (£30pp) to Taliouine, they could
have a nine-day, fully portered, guided circular trek (£220pp) to the summit
of Jebel Sirwa (10,840ft), and still have more than £500 left to blow at the
Kasbah du Toubkal (01883 744392, www.kasbahdutoubkal.com), a magical,
converted kasbah in the heart of the High Atlas, with doubles from £68pp,
full-board, day treks for £35pp, and three-day treks for £130pp, with board
and lodging. If there’s anything left, they should visit
www.maroc-selection.com, which lists more than 50 riad hotels in Marrakesh.
PRESCRIPTION THREE
Coastal caper, Cornwall
Britain? Walking? Winter? Too right. The South West Coast Path gets some
life-affirming weather over the coming months, with stunning inky skies and
bracing, buffeting winds that don’t half make your fireside pint taste good.
Jonathan and Andrea can snaffle accommodation bargains at this time of year,
and they won’t have to battle booted hordes for beds.
The path stretches 630 miles from Minehead round to Poole — a tad far for
three weeks, so I’m prescribing the 163 stunning miles from Padstow to
Falmouth, past Land’s End and The Lizard. It’s only two weeks of walking,
but factor in a day here and there cosying up in Cornish pubs, and three
weeks is barely enough.
The good news for Andrea’s back is that most B&Bs will transport
luggage on to your next overnight stop for £10-£15 (per journey, rather than
per bag); the SWCP Association (01752 896237, www.swcp.org.uk) lists more
than 800 B&Bs and hotels on the path, and publishes a guide. With
£2,000, the Stokeses could travel down by train (£40pp), budget £25pp a
night on B&Bs, send luggage on ahead and still afford the odd
gastro-treat en route.
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