Santa Chiara in a little side street in the small hill town of Guardigrele in
Abruzzo must take some beating in all of Italy. The food is exquisite in
wonderful vaulted limestone surroundings. Wonderful local dishes are
complemented by local and national wines and all of this comes at really
good value, with a sumptious meal for four (two bottles of wine) coming in
at under 100 euros. Tony Gibbons, Chester
I would like to add the Castello della Castelluccia (tel. 00 39 063020 7041)
to the debate. This beautiful castle on the outskirts of Rome, near J3 of
the A1 Ring Road off Via Carlo Cavina is located in a very tranquil,
picturesque spot. The food is "fantastico" with a few gems on the
wine list and you can even stay the night if you feel tipsy or really like
pushing the boat out. The specialities include veal in pastry, pasta dishes
that are unbelievable and wonderful king prawns. Gaz the head waiter is
especially friendly and the chef is a true artist amoungst chefs. Richard
Mitchell, Essex
At least one meal should be eaten in the serene family-run restaurant,
Trattoria Ugo e Maria (Via dei Prefetti 19, tel.06.6873752). Anna, the
daughter of Ugo and Maria has learnt English in the last two years, and will
serve you, as her Renaissance fat mother in a hairnet (the cook) and thin
anxious father (the proprietor), look on from a small table in the back.
Some say Mussolini dined among its six or so tables. We are in the centre of
old Rome, a walk from the Pantheon. Order some red wine and fizzy water and
the ravioli with spinach and ricotta. They arrive with plenty of parmesan.
Now you are ready for artichoke and then rabbit in a stewed sauce of oil,
rosemary, wine or vinegar. If you ever eat better tell Ugo and Maria. Jasper
Joffe, London
Osteria Baralla is a fabulous restaurant in the medieval quarter of Lucca, a
beautiful walled city in northwest Tuscany. Serendipity led us to this
atmospheric restaurant which was inexpensive judged against the quality of
food served. Watch out for the huge serving of Chianina beef and leave room
for the pears poached in red wine. Becky Singleton, Devon
Escape the hustle and bustle of Sorrento at Ristorante Antico Francischiello,
just five minutes drive away. Situated on the main coastal road heading
south you will enjoy the best selection of antipasti I have tasted and
authentic Italian cooking. The atmospheric restaurant is filled with
antiques and paintings and has a huge conservatory-style extension with
magnificent views of the Bay of Naples, Capri and Iscia. The family-run
business boasts that Pavarotti has eaten there and the wealthy Italian
families flocking in confirm that the food is indeed fantastic! Susan
Greeson, Berkshire
Whilst spending Christmas in Florence we stumbled upon La Giostra (Via Borgo
Pinti 12, tel. 055 24 13 41) by accident but on entering we knew the
experience was going to be special. A glass of sparkling wine and platter of
antipasti is provided courtesy of the house whilst you ponder over the menu.
The owner – a Prince from Hapsburg – and quite the entertainer - together
with his son, take great pride in explaining all the dishes available and
their ingredients. My Husband and I had ravioli with pear and Pecorino
cheese and for dessert, magnificent tiramisu. We returned on Christmas Day
and were bestowed with a four course feast fit for a king. It doesn't come
cheap but to us it was worth every penny. Karen Thomson, Fife
Ristorante Pizzeria Poggio Barone (tel. 0575 713162) near Badia Tedalda in
eastern Tuscany is my favourite family restaurant. It's best to ignore the
menu and let Signora Montini woo you with her mouthwatering suggestions of
antipasti of bruschetta with home-grown tomatoes and peperoncino, roast
peppers or the moreish sweet and sour onions. Follow this with a steaming
platter of home-made pasta flavoured with sauces of wild hare, porcini
mushrooms, seasonal truffles or wild boar. After local cheeses served with
fresh walnuts and drizzles of local honey, the signora usually sends us on
our way with a gift – sometimes a jar of her latest quince or pumpkin jam
and on one occasion, a litre of her home-brewed walnut liqueur. Ridiculously
good value at about £15 per head, including wine, and so friendly you feel
you part of the family. Angela Petch, Ipswich
The Trattoria Sostanza-Troia in Via del Porcellana (tel. 055 212691) is in a
seedier part of central Florence, and isn't bothered about catering to
tourists. Order a miserly plate of pasta and half-bottle of fizzy water, and
you'll be asked to clear the table for locals wanting a "proper lunch".
The fast, often funny, sometimes just plain rude service brings you a fiasco
of perfectly quaffable red or white house wine, antipasti of superb salami,
then a plate of Sostanza's divine fagioli, fresh canellini beans
cooked slowly and served up with a generous dribble of fragrant green local
olive oil. If by some miracle you've still got room, go for a freshly-made
fruit salad or some wicked profiteroles, followed by grappa. You will
probably emerge with change from £30 for the well-fed two of you. Maggie
Ferrari, West Sussex
A particularly memorable lunch in Pescara was at a seafood restaurant called
La Figlia di Attilio on the Viale della Riviera, right on the beach.
Agreeing to antipasto can mean anything up to 10 dishes arriving in
leisurely succession, served with the chilled and deceptively potent
Montepulciano Cerasuolo D’Abbruzzo. My wife and I enjoyed razor clam gratin,
oysters, warm potato and cuttlefish salad, grilled langoustines, smokey
cuttlefish grilled on coals with peppers and octopus and rocket salad. The
pasta course was spaghetti with clams, mussels and langostines, the main a
mixed grill of sole, langoustines, turbot and roasted monkfish with a few
potatoes, superbly cooked and washed down with a second bottle of the
Montepulciano d’Abbruzzo Cerasuolo. A liquid lemon sorbet, a bit like a
grown up Slush Puppy, and a couple of espressos rounded off a long,
unforgettable, boozy lunch which had us stumbling and giggling back to our
apartment. Gip Dammone, Leeds
The little-known Cilento National Park region in Campania, southern Italy
offers fabulous "agriturismo" in the countryside close to the
coast. Here, the Casetta Nella Foresta has its own restaurant serving
homemade dishes. Fresh mozzarella and goats cheese come from a farm nearby,
and the freshly made pasta dishes are divine. Gino, Mamma and the rest of
the family all work together to produce the food. Emma Keeble,
Maidstone
A stone’s throw from the Colosseum in Rome is this wonder of a small
restaurant conveniently situated opposite San Clemente, a church built on
the foundations of a roman house and temple. Disregarded by the many
wandering tourists due to an empty frontage, the "in the know"
locals are sunning themselves in the back courtyard. Antipasti and pasta are
freshly cooked and delicious. Try dishes such as rabbit, but make sure you
don’t leave without dessert, which tends to run on a citrus theme in keeping
with the restaurant’s name, Hostaria i Clementini (tel. 06 7045 0935). Ashiya
Ali, London
If money and distance are no object, you should go to Bacco e Felice in
Foligno in southern Umbria. There's room for about 30 diners to sit on
wooden benches. The owner is an extrovert Sicilian called Salvatore Denaro
who is one of the founding fathers of the Italian slow food movement. He
will bang on for as long as you ask him to about ingredients, oils and
wines, but above all vegetables. There is no menu and no prices - it's all
down to trust, although it's reasonably priced. Antipasti includes
panzanella, Sicilian vegetables, and homemade soup, then pasta, a pie, meat
and dessert. Mark Damazer, London
Cento Pizze (Via delle Nasse, 21) in Ravenna is so delicious, so busy and so
inexpensive. Proper Napoli pizza with a slightly fluffy rim that tastes of
American pancakes to me, and a thin base with wonderfull toppings. Plus the
best of all, my Italian partner never lets me pay - apparantly women paying
in a Napolise restaurant is strictly forbidden. Fine by me! N Heath,
West Yorkshire
One of the best kept secrets in Italy has to be the tiny coastal hamlet of San
Fruttuoso, just a boat ride away from Camogli or the contrasting Portofino.
Only accessible by boat, and decades back in time, it consists of just a
church, an abbey and watchtower and the Albergo da Giovanni, a small family
run hotel and restaurant. There are no shops and no tourists before 10am and
after 6pm when the last ferry leaves. If you don't like seafood you are in
trouble - it's all they serve, fresh from the sea served as simple
traditional Genovese dishes. It's fantastic value in an unspoilt and old
fashioned, tranquil location. Peter Lightfoot, Falmouth
This was not the most expensive meal I have ever eaten but even now, seven
months on, the thought of it leaves my mouth watering. The Trattoria dei 13
Gobbi in Florence is a charming, little restuarant in the heart of Florence.
Hidden away from the tourist traps, a place where real Italians go. You are
greeted by the owners as if you are a long lost friend and made to feel like
one throughout your meal. Excellent food enhanced completely by the
incredible setting of the courtyard. This restuarant made my visit to
Florence! Laura Hudson, Surrey
If you visit Lucca there is a fantastic gelateria in the piazza south of the
impressive San Michele in Foro - walk down to 74 Via Vittorio Veneto and you
will find it - try the zuppa Inglese or the coconut - heaven is just
a bite away and its called Gelateria Veneta. Next, if you are travelling
south, pop into Cortona and try the Gelateria Snoopy, with its mind blowing
range of ice cream creations. If this is all too much then there is also a
small gelateria just opposite the Town Hall where you can sit on the flight
of steps enjoying the three flavours you picked and watching the world go
by. Graham Kennedy, Suffolk
Cima 11 is undoubtedly the best kept gastronomic treasure in the region.
Nestling in the foothills of Monte Baldo, just 15km up the hill from Garda,
you will find this outstanding value, family run restaurant. A typical meal
for approx 30 euros consists of: an antipasto (eight assorted cold meats,
cheese under olive oil and bruschetta), homemade tagliatelle with local
truffles, tagliata (a sirloin steak, grilled then sliced, on a bed of
rocket, covered with shavings of Parmesan). Then comes a cheese trolley to
die for and an equally fantastic sweet trolley. Coffee, grappa and wine all
included, but do take four hours for lunch! Carl Oden, Bucks
The Logge Vasari in Tuscany is a family-run restaurant that has stood the test
of time; and numerous visits by my family over the past three years.
Perfectly placed under the early 16th century Logge overlooking the medieval
Piazza Grande in Arezzo, one is greeted with a glass of chilled prosecco and
freshly-baked bread. The menu is best described as "elegant Tuscan",
using the best seasonal produce. And the desserts... awesome! Unusually for
an Italian restaurant the wine list features wine from all major wine
producing areas but local wines from Chianti Aretine to the magnificent
Brunello are the best. This restaurant has yet to disappoint! Sandra
Yong, Arezzo, Italy
I strongly recommend Il Quattro Gigli (tel. 0571 466878), in Montopoli, a
delightful hilltop town about halfway between Pisa and Florence. Tables are
on a vine-draped terrace overlooking a typical Tuscan valley, or in an arch
cellar on cooler days. We were welcomed with a generous glass of chilled
Prosecco, and enjoyed a meal of traditional Tuscan dishes, including wild
boar terrine, ravioli, guinea fowl, rabbit and cantuccini with vin santo.
All excellent and served by knowledgable and friendly staff and accompanied
by an extansive wine list. Advance booking is essential. Bob Anderson,
Midlothian
Da Vittorio in Porto Paola de Menfi, south-west Sicily, is a bit off the
beaten track but worth finding, with glorious food and views. Fish comes
straight from the sea and is cooked to perfection, then eaten on the terrace
overlooking a superb sandy beach. For about 30 euros, and without a menu,
the food and drink just keeps on coming, using whatever fresh ingredients
are available that day. Our feast included pasta, swordfish, prawns,
oysters, sardines, tiny roasted tomatoes, and freshly baked almond cakes.
There's also a few rooms upstairs if you want to really appreciate the
place. Ann Obee, Berkhamsted
One of the true finds of Italy is the hillside restaurant of the Castello
d'Avio (tel. 00 39 0464 684453) about 20 minutes north of Verona off the
A22. It is an ancient walled castle set amongst vineyards, which is owned
and run by FAI-Fondo per l'Ambiente Italiano (which is the Italian National
Trust). Somehow they have succeeded in creating a fantastic restaurant with
breathtaking views, excellent wine cellar, food worthy of a top Italian
venue and it is reasonably priced. An additional bonus is that you can get
in to see the castle free if you are a member of the National Trust here in
the UK! Truly romantic and also open evenings. Valerie Humphrey, Hants
It's got to be Boccon Divino restaurant just outside Montalcino. This is a
family run restaurant serving hearty and yet beautifully finished Tuscan
fayre, together (of course) with an excellent range of Brunello wines. My
mouth still waters at the memory of octopus carpaccio - tender leaves of
pressed octopus in a light dressing, and melt-in-the-mouth fillet of venison
and beef cooked in Brunello. Service is friendly and discreet whilst prices
are realistic but offer good value. David Hoch, Herts
Pordenone, a provincial town in northern Italy close to the American airbase
at Aviano, has the marvellous Brittania Bar. Affectionately known as the "Brit
bar" to its fans, it serves quality "Rustico" fare. Paulo,
the owner, offers a selection of sausage or cheeses at the bar to compliment
glasses of the local red, before you decamp to the restaurant to eat a
selection of simple, but beautifully prepared dishes matched with wines and
aperitifs. All this for about £25 - a bargain too! David Stubbs,
Lincolnshire
I will warn readers, this is a treat in a lifetime and you have to pay dearly
for it. However, if you get the chance to visit Cracco-Peck in Milan you
must save up as long as it takes to try the tasting menu. Set alongside the
Duomo and part owned by Peck, one of the best delis in Italy, this has got
to be the best place we have ever eaten - not only in Italy but anywhere in
the world. Service was stunning and the tasting menu came with selected
wines, with no skimping on quantity. Martin and Kate Allen, Leics
Like the cousins in the movie, "A Room with a View", when
visiting Florence, I decided to disappear down an alley to explore away from
the hustle and bustle near the Pitti Palace. The narrow street came out onto
Piazza della Passera and Trattoria 4 Leone. This is rustic Italian at its
best with high ceilings, stone walls and a small terrace for summer dining.
When we visited, no-one spoke English and the restaurant was busy with
locals. The bresaola with truffle oil on a mountain of rocket salad was a
welcome change to the usual Parma ham and the local speciality, Bistecca
alla fiorentina, was as good as I've ever tasted. Robin Jepps,
Kent
If you are in Alghero in Sardinia, you should pay a visit to the
restaurant/bar/pizzeria PocoLoco. There is great live entertainment and you
can order pizza by the meter with toppings of your choice. This is a trendy
bar where the young locals meet, listen to live entertainment, have some
local wine and go bowling. Nadia Stauffer, Dorset
The best restaurant I have ever been to is called Da Delfina in the small
village of Artimino in Tuscany. The food was exceptional and even catered
well to my husband, who is vegetarian. Added to this was the fact that we
ate on their terrace which had the most fabulous elevated position looking
across the valley, showcasing the surrounding picture postcard Tuscan
countryside and a fantastic Medici villa. Emma Pyne, West
Yorkshire
The delightful hotel Grotta Palazzese (tel. 080 424 0677) in the centre of the
old town of Polignac, near Bari, is set on the cliff overlooking the sea. It
has a magical restaurant in a vast natural grotto cut into the cliffs first
discovered in the 18th century. The restaurant serves the freshest of fish
and we started with a large platter of scampi and assorted shellfish; I
followed this with ravioli of sea bream and prawns while my wife loved her
risotto of red mullet and spinach. We stayed one evening in June when the
sea was very rough, but being dressed in Kagools by the head waiter and with
the sea crashing below us and seabirds skimming the sea was very memorable. Michael
Tanner, East Sussex
I love a restaurant in Villasimius in Sardinia called La Galleria. It is
located in the middle of the little traditional town, which means it is
perfect for watching the locals go about their daily life over a toasted
panini. The restaurant is outside, and the tables set around an old olive
tree, which is beautifully lit up at night. They serve traditional Italian
pizzas and pasta dishes, and a selection of Sardinian wines. The staff are
very accommodating and happy for you to practice your Italian on them! Kathryn
Hayter, Dorset
At the top of Rome's Spanish Steps is The Hassler Villa Medici hotel. The Roof
Restaurant opened in 1947 and has delighted diners since then. It is
romantic, intimate and the view from your table is breathtaking. Dishes like
roasted sea bass with eggplant in ginger sauce or buffalo ricotta delight.
If you go for the Sunday brunch book a window table! Hamish
Oliver, Midlothian
Set away from the bustling streets of central Rome, Antico Arco sits high up
in the Piazza Aurelia, overlooking the city. The restaurant is unassuming
from the outside, but internally, the marble floor and smart decor live up
to its reputation. With the most comprehensive wine list I've ever seen
(approx one inch thick), choosing wine turned out to be fun rather than a
challenge. The food was excellent – often the simplest dishes were the most
impressive, like my aubergine and tomato ravioli. One of the nicest touches
about Antico Arco was the fact that for each course, my other half was
presented with a tiny taster plate of my dish and vice versa. Laura
McGinness, Glasgow
I am lucky enough to have spent most of my life living in the gourmet paradise
that is Italy and can pass on this recommendation. The town of Gallarate is
conveniently located just 10 minutes from Milan Malpensa airport and home to
Il Sasso on via dei Tigli. Tucked away in a tree-lined street it is a high
quality trattoria where the pizzas are simple but delicious, with thin
crusts and abundant toppings. Nigel Cox, Gallarate, Italy
The perfect retreat from sightseeing on a hot Florentine day, Vivoli's has to
be one of Italy's finest gelaterias. Nestled in a hidden alleyway, just
moments from the bustle of Santa Croce, it's filled with tubs of the most
exquisite ice-cream concoctions. Stack a cone high with the lemon ice cream,
the creamiest of fior di latte or go all out and enjoy a
family-sized tub of tiramisu-flavoured ice-cream. Luisa Sanders,
Bristol
One of our family favourites is L’Ancora (tel. 00 39 0789 86086) situated at
La Conia approx 1km north of Cannigione village on the beautiful north east
coast of Sardinia. It serves local dishes and freshly made pizzas cooked to
order in a woodburning oven and wonderful antipasti pesce with
smoked tuna and lobster. Freshly baked focaccia is with topped with either
pecorino cheese or olive oil and rosemary, and is offered complimentary. And
of course don't forget to try the very good local vino and digestivo
Mirto or Lemoncello. Alison Nurse, Dorset
For Rome's best pizza in a family-run pizzeria that feeds all the senses, head
for Da Baffeto (Via del Governo Vecchio 114). Though just around the corner
from the Piazza Navona's touristy cafes (beware the tiny asterisks on the
menu denoting previously frozen meals), Da Baffeto offers the real thing.
With no reservations accepted, arrive at opening time of 6:30pm to avoid the
Roman version of a queue, easily confused with a rugby scrum. Pizza dough is
rolled out on marble counter, generously topped with the freshest of
ingredients and slid into a wood-fired oven. Space is tight so you may find
yourselves sharing a table with locals - we had a highly entertaining
conversation with a Roman and his Peruvian fortune-teller wife. Barbara
Fotheringham, Durham
For real paradise head to the breathtakingly beautiful Gran Paradiso National
Park in the Italian Alps where Lou Ressignon in Cogne (tel. 0165 740 34), a
family run 17th-century rustic inn, gets my vote as the best restaurant in
Italy. The warm and friendly welcome comes not only from the open fireplace
but also from the front of house daughter who speaks perfect English. On our
first visit we enjoyed delicious beef bourgignone served from a big pot.
Also delicious is the trout caught locally from the cleanest, coldest
mountain streams, and the smoked duck salad. We were invited by our
neighbouring diners to share their "friendship cup" - a squat
wooden carved teapot with numerous spouts filled with a speciality brew of
coffee, liquor and herbs. Each person drinks from a different spout as it is
passed around the table. Janice Hamilton, Bristol
